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Klub Miłośników Zegarków AEROWATCH

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Dwie (balans + zapewne wlos) z trzech czesci odpowiadajacych za "dokladniejszy" chod sa czesciami pochadzacymi od wersji elabore.

Uwazam ze fabryka znajac ten fakt powinna zmienic specyfikacje i podac ze werk technicznie odpowiada bardziej specyfikacji elabore niz top.

Dla tych ktorym podoba sie design nie sprawilo by to zadnego problemu.

Ale szukajacy zegarka z werkiem top (czyli technicznie lepszym odpowiadajacym werkowi COSC ale bez czasochlonnych pomiarow) beda sie mogli czuc oszukani.

Zaslanianie sie tym, ze ETA wysyla inny werk niz zamowiono nie jest wedlug mnie OK. Fabryka traci na takiej postawie.

Tylko tyle. :)

 

Tutaj podsumowanie o roznicach miedzy roznymi wersjami:

 

[adjustments: positions, average rate, max variation, isochronism]
 

  • Standard: nickel plated with Etachoc shock protection. Nickel balance, Nivarox-2 spring, Nivaflex NO. No decorations. [2, +-12, +-30, 20]

    Elaboroe: Etachoc or Incabloc shock protection, nickel balance, Nivarox-2 spring, Nivaflex NO. Some decorations. [3, +-7, +-20, 15]

    Top: Incabloc shock protection, Glucydur balance, Anachron spring, Nivaflex NM, Red Jewels. Some decorations. [5, +-4, +-15, 10]

    Chronometre - Top: Incabloc shock protection, Glucydur balance, Anachron spring, Nivaflex NM, Red Jewels. Some decorations. [COSC]

 

Tutaj dluzsze opracowanie:

 

ETA sells their ebauchés in 4 grades: Standard, Elaboré, Top, and Chronometre. Not all of the grades are offered for every movement. For instance the Valjoux 7750 does not come in the Standard Grade. Each grade has set performance parameters, and 95% of the ebauchés delivered in a lot must be within these limits.

Standard
- adjusted in 2 positions: CH and 6H (click HERE for details on positional timekeeping terminology)
- average daily rate: +/- 12 seconds
- maximum positional variation: 30 seconds
- isochronism between 0 and 24 hours: +/- 20 seconds

Elaboré
- adjusted in 3 positions: CH, 6H, 9H
- average daily rate: +/- 7 seconds
- maximum positional variation: 20 seconds
- isochronism between 0 and 24 hours: +/- 15 seconds

Top
- adjusted in 5 positions: CH, FH, 6H, 9H, 3H
- average daily rate: +/- 4 seconds
- maximum positional variation: 15 seconds
- isochronism between 0 and 24 hours: +/- 10 seconds

Chronometre
- adjusted and timed per COSC specification (see above link under Standard) which is not much different from Top Grade


There are also upgraded parts made with different alloys and materials in the higher grades. The Standard and Elaboré calibers use Etachoc shock protection, a nickel balance wheel with a Nivarox 2 alloy hairspring, a Nivaflex NO mainspring, a steel pallet lever and escape wheel, and polyruby pallet jewels. The Top and Chronometre calibers use Incabloc shock protection, a Glucydur balance wheel with an Anchron alloy hairspring, a Nivaflex NM mainspring, a Nivarox pallet lever and escape wheel, and ruby pallet jewels.

Explaining the advantage of a Glucydur balance over a nickel balance is simple: Glucydur (or beryllium bronze) resists deformation from temperature change or abuse much better than nickel so the balance wheel stays in balance and therefore keeps more consistent time.

 

Nickel balance wheel..........................Glucydur balance wheel
IMG_4117-2.jpg..IMG_4117-3.jpg


As far as the hairspring materials, there are 5 Nivarox versions - 1 being the highest grade, 5 being the lowest. The difference lies in the consistency of the timekeeping performance due to small changes in the alloyed metals. Nivarox hairsprings consist of cobalt (42-48%), nickel (15-25%), chromium (16-22%), and small amounts of titanium and beryllium. Anachron is said to be a better performing alloy than any Nivarox incarnation which is why it's used on the Top and Chronometre grades. What metals Anachron consists of is another mystery. I've asked watchmakers here and in the real world and searched the internet for days without finding any information. ETA does also offer the option to upgrade from a Niravox 2 to a Niravox 1 hairspring with the nickel balance wheel on the lower two grades. (click HERE and HERE for more information on the balance & hairsping assembly)

Explaining the variance between Nivaflex NO and Nivaflex NM mainsprings is more difficult - the alloy formulation changes are a trade secret so information is scarce even to watchmakers. I'm not sure if there is much of a change between the two since both Nivarox alloys are listed as 45% cobalt, 21% nickel, 18% chromium, 5% iron, 4% tungsten, 4% molybdenum, and 1% titanium. Do the math and that leaves 2% unaccounted for and who knows what elements fill that void. The difference in the NO and NM might only be tempering the end of the spring and bridle, but that would be an educated guess. (click HERE for more information on mainsprings)

The difference between polyrubies and rubies is based in the manufacturing process. Polyrubies are made from powder that's heat pressed into shape. They're translucent, almost foggy. Rubies are cut from a man-made crystal that's formed in an electro-chemical process. They're completely transparent with better consistency. (click HERE and HERE for more on jewels and shock protection)

The change in shock protection from Etachoc to Incabloc is mostly about price. Incabloc costs more... but for a good reason. The Incabloc system is made entirely to in-house parameters instead of assembled from off the shelf pieces which is a real advantage on the quality control front. Even the jewels are custom made by Sietz (who have practically monopolized the jewel making industry) to Incabloc's specifications. It's also easier to service the Incabloc system. ETA does offer an upgrade to Incabloc on Standard and Elaboré calibers.

http://www.watchtalkforums.info/forums/thread48697.html

Edited by jlw

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Dwie (balans + zapewne wlos) z trzech czesci odpowiadajacych za "dokladniejszy" chod sa czesciami pochadzacymi od wersji elabore.

Uwazam ze fabryka znajac ten fakt powinna zmienic specyfikacje i podac ze werk technicznie odpowiada bardziej specyfikacji elabore niz top.

Dla tych ktorym podoba sie design nie sprawilo by to zadnego problemu.

Ale szukajacy zegarka z werkiem top (czyli technicznie lepszym odpowiadajacym werkowi COSC ale bez czasochlonnych pomiarow) beda sie mogli czuc oszukani.

Zaslanianie sie tym, ze ETA wysyla inny werk niz zamowiono nie jest wedlug mnie OK. Fabryka traci na takiej postawie.

Tylko tyle. :)

 

 

Prawda.

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Panowie - chyba się pogubiłem. Dyskusja ciągle tyczy się Aerowatchy? To w końcu jakiego typu werk mam w swoim zegarku? Top czy to jedynie jakaś marketingowa ściema typu telewizor HD i Full HD?

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Odpowiem tak: Wersja Top powinna mieć między innymi balans Glycydur. Jeśli nie ma to nie jest to Top.

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Nabytek sprzed paru miesięcy.

Zdecydowanie brakuje zdjęć tego zegarka w internecie :)

6241dbcbf3446.jpg

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No bardzo ciekawy zegarek. Musisz stworzyć galerię i nadrobić ten brak fotek w necie :).

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Widziałem na żywo tego Aero kilkukrotnie. Bardzo mocny pod względem jakości wykonania. Klasa.

 

Wysłane z mojego HUAWEI VNS-L21 przy użyciu Tapatalka

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No i się właśnie zastanawiam, czy nie poszukać nowego właściciela dla mojego Aerowatcha

 

8920368_GMG_3636.jpg

8920367_GMG_3620.jpg

 

Noszę rzadko....

Jakby ktoś zapragnął posiadania tego zegarka, to zapraszam na PW.

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w życiu!

ETA 2824-2

Podpuszczalem :)

 

Wysłane z mojego PRA-LX1 przy użyciu Tapatalka


Pozdrawiam
Piotrek
 

stopka.jpg

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Jakby ktoś zapragnął, to jest na bazarku ;)

 

9997716_HMG_8908.jpg

9997717_HMG_8913.jpg

9997718_HMG_9175.jpg

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Nowy szkieleton :)bfa96d8a7a57d1d3b3502975f0d17bb6.jpg

 

Wysłane z mojego PRA-LX1 przy użyciu Tapatalka


Pozdrawiam
Piotrek
 

stopka.jpg

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