Dorzuce jeszcze jedna perspektywe - pozwole sobie zacytowac maila od jednego z tworcow i wlascicieli marki Nodus:
"If you are reading this newsletter, you are likely on the “highly-educated” end of the watch collecting spectrum, so I don’t need to explain Swiss-Made requirements too in depth. But here’s the gist of it; to qualify as “Swiss Made” watch 60% of the manufacturing costs must be generated in Switzerland. This is not a secret. The real trick is in what qualifies as manufacturing costs. In 2017, Swiss Made requirements became much more strict and much more specific. They determined that manufacturing costs may include research, design, assembly, and movement. This means that with the right math, you could essentially manufacture a full watch in Asia, and still qualify as Swiss Made, as many labels do.
Many people don’t understand the true impact that it had on the watch supply chain.
Pre-2017, it was far more common for a full watch to be made in Asia, shipped to Switzerland, then assembled and sold as “Swiss Made”. Since then, higher end factories have had to transition from producing full watches to producing only some components for Swiss companies, which – because of the change in law – would produce mid-cases in Asia but the rest of the parts (case back, tubes, crowns, etc.) in Switzerland.
As anyone in manufacturing would know, separating the production of mating parts almost guarantees fit and finish mismatches down the line. Tolerances are unforgiving at our level of precision. So the level of granularity, manufacturing tolerances, and overall quality had to drastically improve in order for watch factories to deliver a good product (great for small brands like ours!).
For this reason (along with global economic turmoil and a turbulent watch market) many factories had to close down due to an inability to deliver the level of quality that the larger Swiss labels demanded.
It also led to another little ironic outcome: due to the lower movement cost, quartz watches had to be actually fully manufactured in Switzerland, while higher end automatic watches would be outsourced to Asia.
(For the kids in the back: lower movement cost = smaller % of total manufacturing cost = harder to hit 60% threshold in Switzerland.)"
Obydwa aspekty sa ciekawe: podniesione wymogi tolerancji z uwagi na rozdzielenie procesu produkcyjnego ale i (o ironio!) fakt, ze mechanizmy kwarcowe maja wieksza szanse byc wyprodukowane w Szwajcarii niz mechaniki.